Road-trippin' in South-West WA

The South-West of Western Australia is such a diverse and breathtaking landscape. There too much to see in just a week, so we put together an itinerary that highlighted some of the best parts of the area while also being gentle on the budget. This is our complete itinerary with commentary. Enjoy!

Being a world traveller, its always a little embarrassing when people ask you about popular places in your home country and you've never been! It's funny how when things are in your own backyard you neglect to prioritise them. So this time when returning to Australia we decided to get a start on remedying that. First stop - Western Australia. Check out what we did in our week-long road trip! It's important to note: we did NOT do too much around Perth and next time we would stay for more of a city-break.

Our focus for this trip was:

Natural beauty
Fabulous food
Delicious wine
Small outdoor pursuits
Selfies with Quokkas

Our Itinerary

When road-tripping we tend to have a vague outline of what we want to do and then consult information centres, brochures we pick up or people we meet to flesh it out. This one was no different. We flew in late on a Sunday night so we stayed in a hotel for ease. The next day we hit the ground running!

Day 1 ~ Perth CBD and Fremantle

Jet lag worked in our favour so we got up relatively early. First stop was a take away coffee from Low Down Espresso for one of the most highly rates coffees in Perth, before taking a stroll through Kings Park. This park is huge (400 hectares!) and we only had the chance to explore a small section of the Botanical Garden. This garden is stunning, exhibiting over 3,000 species of plants found in Western Australia. Our walk started near the Floral Clock and we then followed the Cliff Walk for panoramic views of the city. Next we continued through the Karri Forrest walk before looping back around through the water garden and ended where we started (map here). Its important to note that this park is on top of a hill so make sure you are prepared. It's totally worth it though.

Next stop: Freo. We booked a lovely Airbnb in a central location close to the ferry for Rottnest. We arrived on Monday, and we noticed something a bit strange. Freo was eerily quiet. Turns out many businesses are closed Monday and Tuesday (including a vegan place I really wanted to visit). Nevertheless, we ventured on and had a look around town.

One can't go to Freo and not visit Little Creatures Brewery (Yes! The beers are vegan!). We started off in the Brewhouse (the heart and soul) by enjoying a flight of beers (and a cider) in the dog-friendly beer garden. After this tasty business and playing with a few pups, we ventured out onto the deck in the Great Hall for some lunch. Staff were super friendly and, although few vegan items were on the menu, were able to easily make changes to vegetarian dishes. So this is where I had some of the best vegan nachos (remove cheese and sour cream) with extra guac! So big it took two of us to polish it off.

After a huge meal and a few beers in the sun, it made sense to go for a walk around the neighbourhood. Fremantle is home to an array of colonial architecture so beauty can be found on every corner. Something I really appreciated about the area was the huge array of thrift and vintage shops. Not enough time for me to see them all (once again, timing!) but they had some great stuff in the windows! We did make a stop in Kakulas Sister for a Vego bar and hot sauce for the road trip before jet lag overcame us and we went back to the apartment. Here, we started planning our day on Rottnest Island.

Day 2 ~ Rottnest Island and Fremantle

There are two ferry companies departing from Fremantle to Rottnest Island several times a day. We booked ahead with SeaLink because we found a deal in a pamphlet. Check online for deals too! Rottnest Express also have bike hire but it seems to be a standard $30AUD a day regardless. We chose to just hire a bike once we arrived on the island. Since it wasn't high season yet, there were only a few times to choose from so we chose a 9:10am departure.

It is suggested you arrive 20 mins before departure so we had a bit of time to grab some breakfast and a coffee. Enter Milk Belly Cafe. I was so excited to see a BBQ jackfruit toasted sandwich on the menu and it didn't disappoint! Combined with tasty coffee and a range of plant-based milks (I went for oat milk) and we were ready for a fun packed day!

First stop for us was the General Store at The Settlement (someone forgot the sunscreen!) and we are glad we stopped in. The helpful guy at the store took time to tell us which places would be best considering weather conditions for the day and how active we planned on being. He suggested that going clockwise to the northern side of the island would be better for swimming so we planned accordingly. After hiring bikes and snorkel gear, we set off on our adventure.

Essentially we just stopped in to places that looked cool. First stop was Thompson Bay for a quick photo op and then onto Kingston Barracks to take a look. Onwards to Henrietta Rocks with a steep staircase to the beach. We headed off to Salmon Point where it was much busier than the places before. We soon realised why: Quokka babies on the beach! These guys were super friendly and were drawn to the humans. I thought this was weird but I now understand why. People were feeding the quokkas. DON'T FEED THE QUOKKAS! There are so many reasons not to do this but one of the major ones is that the chemicals is human food is making the quokkas more aggressive. Seems counterproductive for tourists, right?

We cut across the island next to get to a recommended swimming spot, Parakeet Bay. The water was still pretty cold (especially for this fussy Queenslander) but very refreshing after a couple hours of riding. We also snorkelled here. We saw a few parrot fish and seaweed beds but for me, it was not worth hiring and lugging the snorkel equipment around for this. However, being able to swim at the beach in what seemed like total seclusion was definitely worth it!

We then rode on to Geordie Bay and had a pitstop for coffee and quokka observation. He we learned that these cute marsupials are getting very bold and can also be a bit of a nuisance to residents! More reason not to feed them.

By this stage we were a bit over bike riding (well our butts were at least!) so we headed back to The Settlement to return them and go for a meander on two legs instead. This was the opportune time to take the famous 'quokka selfie' as there were many around. It was a treat to see so many mumma quokkas with their babies with some even in their pouches! By this stage we were feeling like we had done enough on the island so we relaxed on the big grass area and waited for our ferry at 5:55pm.

Monday nights are a bit slow in Fremantle with not many restaurants open. The pubs are very light on for vegan options so we decided on Strange Company for their creative menu full of tasty vegetables. While there were no completely vegan options on the menu, the staff were so helpful with making the dishes vegan friendly. We also enjoyed the cocktails and banter!

Day 3 ~ Wave Rock and Mulka's cave

The roadtrip begins! We chose to hire a car from Europcar and got a smaller SUV for safety on outback roads and space. We set off on our way East and stopped at the supermarket for snack supplies and breakfasts on the road. I'm glad I grabbed some pot noodles just in case! You'll find out why in a bit.

The road out to Hyden (the town closest to Wave Rock) is pretty straight forward and goes through a variety of landscapes. Starting through dense bushland then opening out to sweeping fields the sweeping fields of the wheatbelt, this drive is dotted with colourful wildflowers and interesting places to poke into if you so desire. The total driving time for us was about 3 hours and 40 mins. We arrived at Wave Rock mid afternoon and paid the $12 fee at the ticket machine. It accepts card. Display your ticket on your car dash and head in to see the rock! We got lucky and had this stunning natural rock formation to ourselves to admire. We looped around to see the Hippo's Yawn and wander through the stunning display of paper daisies. Be sure to make the drive out to Mulka's Cave to get up close and personal with some indigenous art inside a hollowed out boulder.

We stayed at Wave Rock Motel in Hyden and it was comfortable. The restaurant has literally no vegan options and is anything but vegan friendly. They have an indoor BBQ so there is no escape from the smoke and smells. I had to go back to the room for pot noodles (my life saver). In spite of that, they did have some activities, such as lawn bowls, available to pass the evening.

Day 4 ~ Lake Grace, Wagin, Bridgetown, Pemberton

Up early today and used our supplies to make avo on toast in the room (yes to toasters in rooms!). Most people head towards Esperence or Albany after wave rock but our end goal was Pemberton for the night - with a few stops along the way. We headed towards Lake Grace. We intended to stop for a coffee here but found that the cafes were all closed in the small towns. Luckily we brought a thermos of tea so we were able to stop for smoko later on. Lake Grace was stunning and a fun little stop on our way. It was partially dry when we visited, allowing us to walk on the lake bed, but periodically fills up through out the year. For best views head over the bridge across the lake and there is a pull in. If it's dry, get out and have some fun on the lake!

Next stop: Wagin (pronounced Wajin) for the Big Ram. Australia is obsessed with “big things”, so of course we couldn’t pass by without a photo to commemorate the event. But at this stop we also learned about the endangered red-tailed phascogale endemic to the area. These little guys have a strange reproductive practice - after mating, the males all die off. So... they literally shag themselves to death! The more you know...

Onwards to our lunch stop in Bridgetown where we stopped at Emporium Bistro. There were a few vegan options on the menu and I had a delicious hummus with Turkish bread and dates, followed by a tasty broccoli salad with smoked almonds, raisins & sherry. This was all washed down with a local soft cider from The Cidery. A little wander around this picturesque town uncovered a cute vintage store, antiques and a couple of other quaint places on the main street.

The town of Manjimup was our coffee stop where we also had time to wander around some more shops. Op shops and refashioned clothing stores were on the main street and worth a quick stop. The Southern Roasting Co. did a really tasty cappuccino on almond milk in my reusable cup (zero waste for the win!). They also stocked a range of interesting magazines and some other zero waste items.

We turned into Diamond Tree last minute and are so glad we did. This giant Karri tree was once a fire lookout with a wooden platform built in 1939. It towers 49m above the ground with steel bars inserted into the tree acting as a ladder. With only wire netting covering the "ladder", this is not a climb for the faint-hearted! With no one around and only a warning sign to guide us (stating no backpacks and sturdy footwear only) we ascended into the unknown. The view at the top of the tree was amazing, and the climb certainly helped me to reach my steps quota for the day. This stop was certainly a highlight before we entered into Pemberton.

We only spent a short time in Pemberton and thoroughly enjoyed visiting Treehouse Tapas and Wine Bar in the evening. Not only were they open until late (10pm in these smaller towns), but they had so many vegan tapas on the menu! It was the icing on the cake for World Vegan Day.

Day 5 ~ Beedalup Falls, Leeuwin Lighthouse, Margaret River, Dunsborough

We had intended to do the Gloucester Tree Walk first thing in the morning but unfortunately poor weather conditions meant no treetop walk for us. Instead we headed to Beedalup National Park to check out Beedalup falls and the Walk-Through Tree. Even in the light drizzle we could hear all the bird life as we hiked the loop to the Walk-Through Tree. If you are short on time, skip this and head straight to the waterfall. Beedalup Falls is a 300m walk from the carpark and is a small but beautiful cascade. The suspension bridge gives an ideal view of the falls. Next stop: Leeuwin!

Leeuwin Lighthouse, the tallest lighthouse on the mainland, was an hour and a half drive from the falls and the scenery changed so much! While heading to the most South-Western point of Australia, you could easily mistake it for Cornwall. Once we arrived at the lighthouse we could choose to pay for entry into the grounds, or wait and pay for a tour as well. The next available tour was an hour and a half later, so we opted for the first. Within the grounds there are plaques and informative signs, plus some great boardwalks for watching the dolphins or trying to spot whales. The lighthouse was opened in 1895 and dedicated to the mariners of the world. After our busy morning, we felt we had earned a trip into wine country.

We drove onto Caves Road which is home to a variety of Margaret River wineries. For lunch we stopped at Xanadu Wines and thankfully all of their wines are vegan! They were also had options that could be easily made vegan on their menu. The helpful staff made this dining experience pleasant and memorable. If only all wineries were like them! I wish I had done some more research to find vegan friendly vineyards because none of the other cellar doors we stopped at afterwards had any vegan wines. Luckily I was the designated driver.

We stayed the night in Dunsborough and, after checking menus online, I was excited to the try the Hippie Burger at Dunsborough Tavern that had a vegan option. I eagerly ordered and was excited to hear that they had vegan cheese. Alas, the black bun was apparently not vegan and neither were the chips! They replaced them with a mountain of coleslaw. Needless to say, I was not content. The vibe of the whole place didn't really gel with me (is it a family pub? Is it a backpacker bar? Is it a dance club?), but I did really enjoy the condiment tree with hot sauces from far and wide!

Day 6 ~ Injidup Natural Spa, Busselton, Gnomesville, Bunbury

Another breakfast of avocado and vegemite in the room (I love how these rooms have toasters!) before setting off to Injidup Natural Spa. We enjoyed exploring the rocks here and scrambled around for about an hour. The spa looked like so much fun but the water was too cold for us. We did see a couple of brave souls enjoying the fun though!

Next we headed to Busselton to walk the famous jetty. For and adult is costs $4 and takes about an hour return to walk. If you want you can stop off at the underwater observatory for an additional cost. It is a pleasant walk and interesting to see the history of the jetty.

For a bit of fun we decided to drive to Gnomesville in the Ferguson Valley. This quirky collection is said to have begun with a local resident placing a gnome in a hollow tree and progressed from there. It is now home to over 5000 of these cute guys! If you like something a little different, I would certainly recommend this place.

We had heard via the grapevine that Bush Shack Brewery had some awesome hard sodas so we decided to stop at their new location for lunch. I was so excited to find a vegan option on their menu too and it was absolutely delicious! Great beers and a very fun location.

Our goal was to make it to Bunbury so that I could catch up with friends so we arrived there at around 5:30pm - happy hour! This town doesn't necessarily see a lot of tourist love, but we found it stunning! The estuary and beaches are both gorgeous and the downtown is quaint. We found a new tapas bar serving some vegan options called Yours or Mine where we enjoyed a couple of exciting cocktails too. Great for some long overdue catch ups and laughs.

Day 7 ~ Penguin Island, Elizabeth Quay

We had to have the car back in Fremantle early in the morning so our time to explore Bunbury further was cut short. We had a friend kindly come pick us up so we could head to Penguin Island later in the day. Alternatively, you could easily reach Rockingham by car or train. But first: burritos! We headed to Zambrero because they had a vegan option on the menu. Turns out for every meal you purchase, they give a meal to a child in need. It hit the spot before exploring the island.

Penguin Island gets its name from the colony of little penguins that call it home. Of course, little penguins are out fishing during the day and only stay on land if they are sick or hatching eggs. So it seems odd that the island is only open to visitors from 8:30 am to 4:30pm considering the penguins leave at dawn and return at dusk. So while it is unlikely that you will see a little penguin in the wild, there are 9 rescued penguins who have been deemed unsuitable for release, who have taken on the role of Penguin Ambassadors. Make sure you are there for one of the feeding times (10:30am, 12:30pm and 2:30pm). We booked with Rockingham Wild Encounters and tool the 2pm ferry over (it only takes 5 mins) and the 3:10pm ferry back. You can spend more time there exploring the boardwalks or enjoying the beach. There are plenty of pelicans and seagulls there too.

From here we made our way back into Perth via train from Warnbro to Elizabeth Quay. You could also leave from Rockingham station. We dumped our bags in a locker at Citiplace Rest Centre (cash only so be prepared) and went to explore Elizabeth Quay. This is a cool place to walk around in the summer evenings and we then enjoyed a cheeky Lord of the Fries before heading to the airport.

And its over...

All the places we visited gave us a taste of the diverse areas of South-West WA, and while we felt perfectly happy with what we had seen, there is always more to explore!