How To See Iguazu Falls

Iguazu Falls: one of the New 7 Natural Wonders of the World and a UNESCO world heritage site. But its a little out of the way for many travellers and gets put into the "too hard" basket or you need to join a tour group that incorporates a visit (and possibly blow your budget!). If you are more DIY or prefer solo travel, then here are a few tips to make your planning a little easier.

After visiting, I can totally see why these falls were declared one of the New Seven Wonders of Nature in 2011. Iguazu Falls National Park (Spanish: Cataratas del Iguazú; Guarani: Chororo Yguasu; Portuguese: Cataratas do Iguaçu) is located on the River Iguazu that forms the border of Brasil and Argentina. The name originates from Guarani or Tupi and literally translates to "big water". Let's just say that is a bit of an understatement. Over 2.7km long and with an average fall height of 64m, these falls were created by a volcanic eruption leaving a HUGE crack in the earth. Now there is a network of 275 falls spanning the distance! Surrounded by lush, subtropical forest, the National Park is also home to many endangered species of flora and fauna. So why wouldn't you want to go and see this awesome sight for yourself?

How long should I spend there?

For us, the major draw card was the falls and a chance to get a bit of relaxing in. We spent 3 nights in Puerto Iguazu in total, allowing us 2 full days to explore each side. Depending on your transport choice and timetable, you could easily get it done in 2 nights. If longer jungle treks are your thing, give yourself a little more time.

How to get there (from Buenos Aires)

There are two towns close to the National Park - one on the Argentine side and the other on the Brazilian. I would suggest going to the town in the country you intend to stay in. For us, we went to Puerto Iguazu as we were in Argentina. If you are in Brazil, head to Foz do Iguaçu. There are airports and bus stations in both towns.

By Bus

The bus from Buenos Aires takes approximately 18 hours and can be done in comfort. At a cost of $2550 ARS, there are several bus companies offering this route(Crucero del Nort, Express Singer, Uruguay Rio,Tiger Iguazu and Via Bariloche). BusBud is a good website to check. If you have the time, are on a budget and are happy to skip a night's accommodation, then this may be the option for you. The prices are reliable and don't seem to fluctuate too much.

By Plane

Often seen as the more costly option, it does pay to check flight prices to see if there is a deal. Several airlines fly to Puerto Iguazu from Aeroparque in Buenos Aires (Argentine Airlines, Argentine Airlines (operator Southern Airlines ) , Andes Airlines, LATAM Argentia and the new kid on the block, Norwegian). There are other departure points but this is the most convenient for you if you are staying in the city. We got lucky and found a sale on the LATAM website allowing us to fly return for the equivalent of 110USD each. Since the cost was only slightly higher than the bus, we opted to save time and cough up the extra 20USD per person. This sale was only available on the Argentinian site so if you want to test out your Spanish and save yourself some time and money, be sure to check it out!

Where to stay

We were waiting for our visas so we opted to spend our nights in Puerto Iguazu. Alternatively, you could split your time between Puerto Iguazu and Foz do Iguaçu if you don't mind packing up your stuff each day. Puerto Iguazu is quite an unassuming town and there is not necessarily much to do. Our visit was during Summer so the hot days meant the town seemed almost empty. If you are planning on using your accommodation as a base just to sleep, there are a couple of popular hostels in town and some of them have pools too (they fill up quickly so be sure to book ahead!). I prefer to use Hostel Bookers although you may find better rates if you book directly with the hostel. If you are after a place that is a little more tranquil to relax in after exploring, then a hotel with a pool may be your scene. We chose the latter. Our hotel, Posada 21 Oranges, was just outside the main town but it was just a bit far to walk in with the heat. However, the continental breakfast complete with fresh orange juice from locally grown fruit was included and the rooms were comfortable. This was the serenity we were looking for!

What to do there

The main drawcard here is, of course, the National Park. Both sides of the river are worth visiting so that you have a full experience of these awesome falls. If you have to pick just one, go to the Argentinian side.

Argentinian Side

Plan to spend a whole day here - it's worth it. To get to the park you can either take the tourist bus or go by taxi. The bus will cost you $130ARS per person per way. When travelling with more than one person it may be more practical and economical to take a taxi. We chose the bus thinking it would be less expensive, however, in the end we realised a taxi may have been a better option. Taxi prices are negotiable so it depends on how well you haggle.

When you arrive at the park, you will see a variety of ticket prices. Foreigners will pay the highest amount ($700ARS). The park also accepts credit cards (very rare in these parts!). Once you have your ticket, proceed through the turnstiles and collect your complimentary train ticket. There will be a time printed on the ticket so you will know which train to take. The train will make several stops en route so you can access the trails. You can also walk it, but if the weather is hot this is not advisable.

If you want to have all the excitement at the start, head straight to the Devil's Throat walk. Be prepared - you will get wet! At the train stop half way to the Devil's Throat, you will find two more walks - the upper and lower circuits. The lower circuit will give you sweeping views of the falls from below and personally I found it to be the most breathtaking. The upper circuit takes you along the tops of the falls and gives you a different point of view. The ferry to San Martin Island is currently out of use so there was no access to this viewpoint. Keep your eyed peeled for the amazing fauna - we saw coatis, toucans, butterflies, swifts and much more! Also, keep your eyes on your bag around the coatis as they are known to take them in search of food - you've been warned!

Brazilian Side

Firstly, Brasil is one hour ahead of Argentina. Take this into consideration when planning your trip. The Brazilian side of Iguazu Falls does not need as long to explore. Three hours should be sufficient and includes time for a drink and a snack at the top. To get to the park you can take the tourist bus or a taxi. The tourist bus to Brazil is $260 ARS from the terminal in Puerto Iguazu. A taxi is around $1000ARS and is allowed to use the fast lane for quicker passport checks (tick!). We opted for a taxi this time as the added $200ARS to get into town and fast time was worth it for us.

Once you arrive, you will find that foreigners will pay a premium to enter the park ($69BRL) and this will include a bus to and from the trail. Head straight for the bus and you will be taken directly to the trail head. This is the first glimpse of the falls for many people so it can get a bit hectic at the first lookout. I suggest taking your time here (apply some suncream, drink some water) and let the crowds dissipate. Then you will have this gorgeous view all to yourself!

There are several lookouts along the route and it ends with a walkway over the water where you may get a little wet (but not drenched). As you walk up there will be gift shops and kiosks. A panoramic elevator is available to take you to the top if you need, but the walk up is just as nice. Head towards the restaurant and next lot of gift stores to have a bit of a rest (and a snack too if you like) before taking the bus back to the entrance. We had agreed on a time to meet our taxi and he was waiting for us.

Where to eat

When looking for vegan food in Puerto Iguazu and the parks, it really was slim pickings. The best meal I had there was at Tacopado, a TexMex restaurant where the waitstaff understood what vegan meant and knew straight away what I needed to order (only one option). If you are craving a burger, the Van Burger has a vegan option available too. There may be other places to try, but with Google being unreliable with opening hours of restaurants coupled with their wacky opening hours any ways it was a tough call! Supermarkets stock frozen soya burgers so if you have a kitchen available this could be an option.

In the parks, food is not much better. On the Argentinian side, mostly processed and prepackaged foods are sold in the kiosks, along with subway sandwiches and empanadas (not vegan friendly). Some kiosks had juices and granola bars too. I ended up having a frozen treat (ice-block, ice-lolly, whichever you call it). The Brazilian side, however, surprised me! Once we got to the restaurant at the top there was a kiosk selling fruit, açaí bowls and fresh coconut water!